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Here are some examples of how to make your home fully digital.
Sky+ with multiroom
The device on the end of the "arm" of your satellitedish is an LNB. Because the digibox sends power to the LNB, you can not just split the cable onto two input. When you buy a Sky+ package from Sky, it comes with a "quad LNB", which has four outputs. The engineer runs two cables from the dish to the Sky+ box.
You can then run one each to a digibox by up to four televisions. You can either do this though "Sky multiroom" (as shown, with Sky+ in one room and another digibox elsewhere), or by doing it yourself.
Sky+ boxes require a constant authorisation signal from Sky over the satellite path. The moment you disconnect the box from the satellite inputs or you stop paying Sky the 10 per month the Sky+ box will stop working as a personal video recorder, and act like a normal digibox. You can't use the box to record, playback or pause without a Sky subscription.
Freesat multiroom - no Freeview
It's not possible to use it to receive Freeview, but you can get the Freesat service. All you need is either a new DVB-S (digital video broadcasting - satelite) box, or an old Sky Digibox. You can use a Quad LNB to supply digital satellite signals to digiboxes in each room.
Sky and Freeview
It will always be better to use a higher classification aerial alone, rather than a less able one with an amplifier. With digital signals, it is far more important to get good quality reception for the set-top box, rather than increase the signal's power as this will simply be ignored by the digital receiver.
For many people Freeview is used on the main and second TV, in addition to subscription Sky on the first.
Cable and Freeview
Or you might have NTL/Telewest cable on the main TV, with Freeview for the secondary televisions.
Sky with RF second TV
If you connect a second TV to a digibox by using the "RF output", this does not require a separate connection to the dish, but you can only watch the same channel from the digibox on both TVs. With Sky digiboxes, you can also use your remote control with a IR receiver by the second TV.
you can share the recorded channels to a local area network, play them on a Xbox360 and burn them to DVD
it records the digital signal, so the playback quality is perfect.
The specification for the Elonex Artisan LX, and it says it comes with the "Hauppauge WinTV Nova-T" cards. The "T" suffix denotes the DVB-T (digital terrestrial) version of the card. A satellite version of the card is available (Elonex may supply these instead of the "-T" cards)?
Wireless networks should be up to the job of sharing the recorded TV programmes to the local network, but it is my personal experience that they are not. You might find it works better by connecting your new Media Centre computer to the wireless router using a cat5 (twisted pair Ethernet) patch cable.
Freeview media center
The Freeview media center is easier to setup, as you can just use a simple splitter to provide the UHF Freeview signals to two receiver cards (or a dual-headed card).
Once again the recorded programmes can be watched by using a simple file share, or by using an XBox360.
Freeview everywhere
If the Freeview signal is strong, you can usually just split the aerial cable where convenient to supply a digital television signal to many digital televisions or set-top boxes.
Freeview and Sky everywhere
In good signal areas, it will be possible to feed the aerial signal first the the Sky digibox, and then on to integrated televisions or Freeview boxes, adding in the ability to watch one Sky channel around the home.
Freeview everywhere with masthead amplifier
Another possibility is that you are passing the incoming aerial signal though some other device (such as a VCR) that is either filtering or producing it's own signal. If this is the case, see if plugging the aerial directly into one Freeview box will allow you to see these channels. If this works, then you can use a masthead amplifier to boost the signal for each digital television or set-top box.
You can either get a distribution amplifier that is powered from the mains directly; that is the mains lead goes directly into it and therefore requires a local socket to plug it into. Or you can get remotely-powered ones which are the sort you put outside on the aerialmast; these require a power supply to be sited, usually adjacent to one of the TVs with the low voltage being fed up the aerial lead to the amp.
As you can get condensation in the loft it is maybe a good idea to not have mains appliances up there if you can avoid it. For that reason, either use a remotely powered amp in the loft or site a mains-powered one somewhere within the living quarters, ensuring appropriate ventilation etc.
This is an example of the remote type I am thinking of:
If you find that it isn't good enough, you might like to have a Plan B which is to replace it with a powered amplifier.
Replacing the cable with double-screened such as Webro WF100 will reduce losses, although I'm not sure how important this, particularly if replacing a length of cable that is plastered into the wall and requires a lot of work:
The current aerial will give you an idea of the sort of signal area you are in. Clearly I can't say for certain, but if you are in a good area then a Log 40 or DM Log will do:
You may be able to utlise the existing loft bracket and pole, or get another.
Or you may find that the current aerial works fine - once you've corrected the bodged connection. Again, if it proves not to work once you have your distribution system installed, you can always swap the aerial.
Catherine: A further thought regarding use of a mast-head amplifier with separate power supply: some devices (TVs and set-top boxes) have the ability to send power up the aerial lead to run an amplifier. This would mean that there would be no need for a separate power supply, but it would mean that the device would have to be powered on in order to watch any TV fed from the amp.
I'm not an aerial professional and haven't looked into this deeply. As an example the Humax HD-FOX T2 can provide 5V (when activated). However, the amplifier I directed you to on the ATV site is a 12V one, so you would have to see what voltage and maximum current rating your device could support and then look for a suitable amp.
The above is if you decide to go down the route of using a powered amplifier - not entirely sure that it's necessary.
Mazbar: Thanks for that. It's a good point that the ATV site gives useful information, but that it might be worth looking around for parts once you know what you are looking for.